Making the most of your leaves
The
days are getting shorter and colder, the wind begins to blow stronger.
Watching the first leaves falling from the trees, you know autumn has arrived.
While leaves cover the ground like a colourful carpet, it is the perfect
time to collect and make great use of them in your new leafmould heap.
Composted leaves are known as leafmould, which is a rich brown/black material that is very good for gardening with. Leafmould is low in nutrients, which makes it ideal for seed germination. Seedlings will grow strong and develop a good root system, which will help them to remain healthy and free from pests and diseases. It is also a fantastic soil improver. The organic particles help create air spaces, which allows the roots of flowers and trees to penetrate the soil easier.
Your little helper
The slow process that causes leaves to rot down and become rich leafmould is all down to fungi. To make great leafmould, you need to wait for about two years before using it, to make sure that the leaves have decomposed completely.
It is better to collect your leaves after rain to improve their decomposition. If they are dry, you can add some water once you have filled your heap. Moisture is what is needed most for the fungi to break down and turn your leaves into leafmould. We suggest that your leafmould 'compost' heap should be built out of wire mesh - a simple structure with a post at each of the four corners.
Which leaves?
In theory most leaves can be used to create good leafmould. Some are, however, better than others. Mixing different types of leaves is not a problem, but you should be aware of the decomposition rates of the different species. The most suitable leaves are those from deciduous trees such as oak, beech and hornbeam, which take about a year to rot. Sycamore, horse chestnut, holly and sweet chestnut as well as conifer and evergreens are not quite so good, because it takes longer for them to rot, usually about two or three years. Pine needles also take longer to decompose and the resulting leafmould is more acidic, but it can be used for acid-loving plants.
Building the heap
If you have enough space in your garden, the best choice for your heap is to create a wire mesh container. Hammer four timber posts firmly into the ground and roll chicken mesh tightly around them, leaving the top and the bottom of the heap open. You can fix the mesh to the post with staples. When space is limited, you can use strong bin bags with holes in them.
Let’s get started!
Once your structure is built (or your bags perforated), you are ready to start making your own leafmould. Rake the fallen leaves with a garden rake and fill the container. Make sure that the leaves are tightly packed and add water if dry.
And that's it! Check your leafmould after 12 months. If the leaves haven't completely broken down, you could use it as a mulch or mix it with soil to improve structure. It may take longer to produce a fine, crumbly leafmould perfect to use in potting or seed composts.
An extra tip
By shredding the leaves before collecting them, you will speed up the process. This can be done by running over them with a lawnmower before collecting them for your heap.
